Belgrade After Dark

Rakija and Serbian drinking culture

Culture · 5 min read · Updated Nov 9, 2026

Drinking in Serbia comes with its own customs. Learn three of them and you will fit in at any table: how to toast, what rakija is and how a kafana works.

Crowd raising their drinks and cheering at a bar

What is rakija?

Rakija is fruit brandy, the traditional spirit of the Balkans. The best-known type is made from plums (šljivovica), but you will also see apricot, quince, pear and grape versions. It is usually served in small glasses, often as a starter or a welcome drink.

How to toast

The Serbian word for cheers is Živeli! (ZHEE-veh-lee). Making eye contact while you clink glasses is the custom.

How a kafana works

A kafana is a traditional Serbian tavern. Expect grilled meat, salads, a long wine and rakija list, and sometimes live folk music. Tables are for lingering, not for turning over quickly. The best are around Skadarlija; see our nightlife areas guide.

Three more Serbian words

Drink it responsibly

Rakija is strong, often around 40% alcohol or more, and homemade versions can be stronger. Sip it, eat with it and follow the pub crawl rules on pacing.

Want a local-style night without planning? See our Belgrade pub crawl.

Join the Friday crawl

Every Friday: 2 bars + 1 club in Belgrade, €15 per person. We meet in the center and move as one group.

See the pub crawl

Frequently asked questions

What is rakija?

Rakija is a fruit brandy, the traditional spirit of Serbia and the Balkans, most famously made from plums.

How do you say cheers in Serbian?

Živeli! It is pronounced ZHEE-veh-lee.